I've got some good news and some bad news. Let's start with the bad news. I did some research and found that the repair kit for your Fulton Fas-Lok Coupler, # F223000301, has been discontinued. My contact at Fulton recommended replacing the coupler. The good news is that we offer a very reasonably priced bolt-on channel tongue coupler rated at 3500 lbs., # CT-3003-Z, that should meet your needs. I've attached a photo of this coupler installed and a video review.
Since you're replacing... view full answer...
I have a solution for you. I went ahead and reached out to my contact at Dexter Axle, and they recommended replacing the surge coupler with a standard weld on or bolt on straight tongue coupler. This is the safest way. They could not confirm for sure whether drilling a hole/installing a bolt would affect the stability or strength of the coupler.
For a standard coupler, I recommend the Channel Tongue Trailer Coupler # CT-3002-Z along with the 2" Hitch Ball # C40004. If you need a hitch... view full answer...
It sounds as if the holes in the trailer frame are not drilled straight through the tongue, or that the coupler spread a little bit after it was stamped at the factory. The coupler should conform to the shape of the frame when installed.
The first thing I would try is use a C-clamp around the coupler, and squeeze the coupler to the frame. This way you can check to see if the bolts will align and slide all the way through the coupler and frame.
If you cannot get the bolts to align in... view full answer...
The B&W Extend-A-Goose Gooseneck Coupler - 10" Offset # BWTEXA4200 should be a straight fit. If your coupler was not installed so the pin was horizontal, then there isn't another adapter that will fit correctly. The misalignment will be an issue with any replacement. I recommend replacing your coupler with the Ram Gooseneck Coupler w/ Load Bearing Pin - 8" Adjustment - Round - 2-5/16" Ball - 25K # GCPN-25008.
Your only other option is drilling a new hole in your current coupler to... view full answer...
Generally if all of the parts of the towing system are in good condition then you should not have a problem with the coupler coming off of the ball. In the case of EXTREME negative tongue weight, the towing system is not designed to be used in that condition. Towing systems are designed to have 10 to 15 percent of the gross trailer weight, loaded and ready to travel, on the trailer tongue. The latch on a coupler is not designed to hold the hitch on to the ball at all times. It is designed... view full answer...
I checked with my tech contact at Equal-I-zer and the Pole-Tongue Adapter # EQ95-01-5950 and they have not tested the adapter mounted upside down. They said they wouldn't recommend it because the entire weight of the system would be on that one bolt if it were installed on the underside.
Instead, I recommend you use the Titan Hydraulic Brake Line with Fittings # T4890700 to go up and over your adapter. That flexible extension will allow you to mount the adapter at 32 inches and not... view full answer...
It sounds like 1 of 3 things. First, you might be experiencing some sway type of issue caused by wind or wind resistance, sort of like turbulence in an airplane. One thing that can help with that somewhat (though it probably won't completely eliminate it) is to use a cushioned gooseneck coupler such as # CG. The cushioning will absorb some of that movement.
Another possibility is that something is misaligned on the trailer. But given that it is new this seems unlikely. You could have the... view full answer...
Because they consider it proprietary information, the manufacturer will not provide a build sheet or detailed drawing of the # CA5100B.
I believe you're needing the angle of the A-frame trailer tongue which would be equal to the angle of the two sides of the coupler which is 50 degrees, as shown in the photo I've provided. view full answer...
I believe that I can help you with the tugging you are experiencing. First, consult your vehicles owners manual for the towing capacities and recommendations, and to make sure you are not exceeding those capacities.
Next, there is a formula you can use to determine the best place for your axles. If your tongue weight is less than 10 percent of the gross trailer weight you will first determine what 10 percent of the tongue weight is. 180 pounds is what you will need. Subtract the actual... view full answer...
Most trailer couplers are designed specifically for one of the three common hitch ball sizes, 1-7/8-inch, 2-inch or 2-5/16-inch, to ensure a safe and secure fit. The compatible ball size is usually stamped into the coupler. However, there are also multi-fit couplers such as # T2343400183. These can function correctly on more than one ball size so long as they are properly tightened. Make sure your hitch ball is not damaged and is the size that works with the coupler on your trailer.
Since... view full answer...
Yes, your situation is exactly what a weight distribution system is designed for. The Reese Strait-Line Weight Distribution System, item # RP66073, will work well with the tongue weight and trailer weight that you have stated. It will also allow for a bit of wiggle room should the contents of your trailer start to add up.
With this system you will need a properly sized hitch ball with a 1-1/4 inch shank for installation on the weight distribution head. Most likely the 2-5/16 inch Diameter... view full answer...
It is not wired correctly. The wires coming out your coupler are for the reverse lockout solenoid. The wire connected to ground is correct, but the wire connected to brakes at your junction box # HS381-9000 is not correct. That pin is for electric trailer brakes and not a hydraulic surge brake coupler. You will want to connect that coupler wire to the reverse light circuit instead. This is designed to give power to that solenoid when you shift into reverse allowing that solenoid like... view full answer...
Something must have changed in your towing setup to cause the trailer to sway with the new truck. I would start by measuring the ball height and the trailer coupler height. Park the truck and trailer on level ground and measure from the ground to the top of the receiver opening on the truck and from the ground to the bottom of the coupler on the trailer. If the hitch height is greater than the coupler height, the difference is the drop that is required. If the coupler height is greater,... view full answer...
If the ball is smaller than what the coupler requires then the coupler would be able to move around quite a bit and wear down the ball.
If the ball is the right size then excessive tongue weight could be a factor. The trailer tongue weight is typically 10 to 15 percent of he gross trailer weight. The ball you use will need to be rated higher than the gross trailer weight.
You can also lubricate the ball so that there is less friction. Some ball lube such as # 58117 would work well for... view full answer...
Check the trailer coupler to see if it is meant to take a 2-5/16 inch ball. If so then the 2 inch ball you have will not be large enough and this issue could keep happening. If it does take a 2 inch ball then either the coupler was not fully secured or something needs to be adjusted with the coupler. Most couplers will have a nut to tighten or loosen that is accessible on the bottom.
On some vehicles there is a specific distance the ball has to be from the rear axle of the tow vehicle.... view full answer...
If your trailer surge coupler uses a lockout key to allow reversing then it is operating normally. Some Titan brand couplers use this type of key-operated manual lockout. Inserting the key is required for these couplers even on level ground.
If not, then it is possible that the shock inside your surge actuator may be malfunctioning. The shock serves to return the surge coupler to its extended "brakes off" position unless there is plenty of force on it from your reversing the tow vehicle.... view full answer...
The way I would go about this is to lower your coupler height or use a coupler similar to the Bulldog Collar-Lok Coupler w/ Pin - 2-5/16 inch Ball - Adjustable Channel Mount - 12,500 lbs, item # BD028585, and mount it so that the coupler is in the correct position to allow a weight distribution hitch to be used with the trailer and coupler. Make sure the coupler you select will accommodate the total weight of your trailer and the loads on it.
You would then use a weight distribution system... view full answer...
For your Blue Ox SwayPro Weight Distribution w/ Sway Control - Clamp On # BXW1500 the lift bracket positioning is as you stated 29 inches back from the hitch ball. If you choose to use this system the manual recommends "Remove or relocate any obstructions on the trailer tongue framework if necessary".
If you want to move to a different system, I recommend the Equal-i-zer Weight Distribution System w/ 4-Point Sway Control # EQ37120ET which can have the lift brackets positioned between... view full answer...
I would first double check to make sure that everything is installed properly. The hitch ball that comes with the Trailer Valet XL # TVXL2 has a base that you spin to lock your unit to the coupler so that it sits straight. If you have an older version it probably didn't come with the coupling plate, but newer versions all come with the coupling plate to help make sure the dolly is flush.
Once you have adjusted the spinning base as much as you can by hand, use the included tool to tighten... view full answer...
If you are having difficulty opening the jaws on your B&W Companion # BWRVK3400 you may just need to relieve some more pressure from the trailer. Make sure the landing gear on the trailer is adjusted properly so that the tongue weight is removed from the truck. When the jaws do not open with the coupler handle, this is the most likely cause.
It's also possible that you are parked on unlevel ground, which can cause the jaws to bind up a bit when trying to uncouple. The Companion features... view full answer...
Go To Results